By switchbackmke on Monday, September 28, 2009 - 09:47 pm: Edit Post
Just finished putting a new track on my 07 Switchback, and now need to put oil in the chaincase. Looked in the factory service manual as well as the owners manual and they don't give a weight or service classification of the oil like you would typically see in say your car service guidelines. All they say is to use Polaris Synthetic Chaincase Lube. I have a bottle of Mobile 1 Synthetic gear lube in the garage that is 75W-90. Wanted to know if I could use this in lieu of the mystery Polaris Oil. Any thoughts?
By sargebbj1953 on Monday, September 28, 2009 - 10:09 pm: Edit Post
Do not use gear lube. I would go buy a quart of chaincase oil from your Polaris dealer.
By polarisrider1 on Monday, September 28, 2009 - 10:51 pm: Edit Post
Just buy the Polaris Synthtetic. Get the larger bottle it is a way better deal than the premeasured bottle. measure it out yourself. I think you need between 9 to 12 oz. Dealer will tell you.
By skeeter2010 on Monday, September 28, 2009 - 11:24 pm: Edit Post
Well here we go again the great debate over chain case oil. This is usually get lots of hits
By bruno on Tuesday, September 29, 2009 - 08:09 am: Edit Post
Motor oil is not a good idea, The detergent in it will cause foaming. Motor oil is designed to be pumped not churned. If motor oil is all you can get use a non detergent type. But the best bet is to use a good chain case oil, I like klotz, or amsoil. The manufactures stuff is always a few bucks more., but it's good too.
By winter_time on Tuesday, September 29, 2009 - 08:44 am: Edit Post
automatic transmission fluid is what i use
By skidoo50 on Tuesday, September 29, 2009 - 08:48 am: Edit Post
Here we go again.
By bouncer on Tuesday, September 29, 2009 - 09:09 am: Edit Post
When they say detergent type oil, meaning it has an additive that will encapsulate the carbon byproduct leftover in the engine from the result of combustion. This is why the oil turns black. It is holding this carbon that would otherwise end up on all the engine internal surfaces and form sludge. Any liquid will foam if agitated enough. It is not because of the detergent in the oil.
By michaeladams on Tuesday, September 29, 2009 - 02:36 pm: Edit Post
oil,oil everywhere,and not to shot to drink
By dcsnomo on Tuesday, September 29, 2009 - 06:07 pm: Edit Post
I'm not an expert, but I am a realist. Given how important the chaincase is, and given the high dollar amount of a failure, why would you not do exactly what the manufacturer reccomends? So you get nicked an extra $10-$20 for the manufacturer label, at least you know it is the right stuff.
By booondocker on Tuesday, September 29, 2009 - 06:39 pm: Edit Post
Pooshaw....oil is oil. Remember that the use will be in cold temps so the trick is to use something that does not get thick when it gets cold, which is why the recommend synthetics because it doesn't jell up like dino oil can.
By polarisrider1 on Tuesday, September 29, 2009 - 07:54 pm: Edit Post
Why rewrite the program? How cheap do we go here. We are looking at 9-12 oz. of oil. If you have to reinvent the wheel go with a non detergent oil that is at the weight of what your sled manufacture recomends. They spend millions on researching this stuff. Why re-think something so minor? This is like burning Boat or weed wacker oil in your sled to save a dime. (rest has been self edited).
By obob on Tuesday, September 29, 2009 - 11:31 pm: Edit Post
I use Full Synthetic Amsoil, and change every fall, 7500 Hard rockin Miles. 02 Polaris 700xcsp.
By polarisrider1 on Tuesday, September 29, 2009 - 11:48 pm: Edit Post
obob- that was put perfectly. I actually started to get tearey eyed. Great answer!!
By eao on Wednesday, September 30, 2009 - 12:20 pm: Edit Post
My 2 cents from years in the lubrication business.
By marty__kms on Wednesday, September 30, 2009 - 02:12 pm: Edit Post
By sundown on Thursday, October 01, 2009 - 08:48 pm: Edit Post
Use whatever weight lube you are comfortable with, but make sure it has an "EP" rating. All that horsepower you guys are cranking has to get from drivetrain to track via the chain and sprockets. True you are lubing the bearings, but that is not where the filings are coming from. You need the extreme pressure lube because of the force generated between the sprockets and chain. This is the wear area. Also remember that the more you boost horsepower and increase traction the more stress you put on the chain and sprockets.
By switchbackmke on Thursday, October 01, 2009 - 10:37 pm: Edit Post
By 800le on Friday, October 09, 2009 - 09:14 pm: Edit Post
I have a 2001 800 LE and I have thought of and researched using after market oils and lubricants. But why? Everyone has an opinion on what you should use. So, I have stayed with Polaris' lubricants with one reason why. When you buy an expensive toy such as a snowmobile why use after market oils and lubricants in it just because they are cheaper. I ride with different people at different times and I have noticed that some of these guys suit up, fire up, and zoom their gone without any warm up. Then within 3 or 4 thousand miles their motors have pucked. Myself I start my sled let it warm up ,and suit, up warm my track up and then take off. That warm up procedure and not being cheap is the reason why my 800 is still going strong at 10,000+ miles and still starts on the second pull. Dont get me wrong I have replaced the normal wear parts track, carbides, clutch, etc.
By polarisrider1 on Friday, October 09, 2009 - 11:59 pm: Edit Post
800le, you omly have 10,000+ miles on that sled. It is a guzzler after all. I put 8800 miles on my 01 800 xc sp in the first 2 yrs. I had the 2 yr. engine warrenty. Never warmed the sled up. Rode it like I stole it all throughout Canada in hopes of cashing in for a new motor. No such luck. When the warrenty ran out I got alittle worried, so I unloaded it on a brother-in-law Still running strong for my brother-in-law (who is a big guy) 3rd track 4th drive bearing (speedo side). same motor 24,000+ miles on it. It did drink the gas (pre power valve motor). Does your electric suspension shock still work? I had that gizmo on my 2000 700 xcsp 45th aniversary. Or did yours come with M10?
By eao on Saturday, October 10, 2009 - 07:53 am: Edit Post
Polaris (also Arctic Cat)lubes are bottled by a company called Lube-Tech. They are a oil provider serving the small engine and power sports industry. They blend it, bottle it, distribute it and the OEM's set the prices.
By booondocker on Saturday, October 10, 2009 - 08:19 am: Edit Post
"My favorite is the guy who will spend $10,500.00 on a sled and then spend 3 hours researching how to save $10.00 on oil, damn accountants and engineers. (Pun intended)"
By eao on Saturday, October 10, 2009 - 09:47 am: Edit Post
There is a big difference between an engine and a gear case.
In an engine oil is forced between the metal surfaces by the oil pump and it maintains that pressure, not so in a axle or chaincase or differential. If the oil, ATF etc does not have extreme pressure additives (and they don't because they are not needed) the gears/chains meshing will force the lube out and there will be margin protection. There is no oil pump pushing the oil between the metal surfaces to protect them.
Research has shown that NO motor oils contain extreme pressure additives presently. This includes major motor oil company’s petroleum and synthetic products as well as specialty synthetic motor oil producers such as Amsoil® , Redline®, and Royal Purple®.
By vx700xtc on Monday, October 12, 2009 - 11:20 pm: Edit Post
How long do you think the oil in your chain case stays cold? Ride your sled about 10 miles, stop, and feel your case,, cold?? no.
By longtrack on Tuesday, October 13, 2009 - 07:51 am: Edit Post
I put my Grandmothers Pea Soup in my Ski-doo it works fine.
By booondocker on Tuesday, October 13, 2009 - 09:02 am: Edit Post
I use my wife' facial mud...a bit gritty, for the first few miles but then she is loose as a goose....my sled that is!
By anonomoose on Tuesday, October 13, 2009 - 09:07 am: Edit Post
VX, this is my point. Like your car or truck or ATV, sled...weedwhacker....all are pretty functional on nearly anything made because nearly all of this stuff is pretty high tech, has great lubricating capacity, and corrosion protection. All this in a fairly low tech application, you probably could use ear wax and be fine!
By vw56german on Tuesday, October 13, 2009 - 03:28 pm: Edit Post
Ok, lets look at an automotive example that is similar to a chain case.
By joshwagner on Tuesday, October 13, 2009 - 05:45 pm: Edit Post
Isn't this application identical to a transfer case on a truck or jeep?
By polarisrider1 on Tuesday, October 13, 2009 - 06:27 pm: Edit Post
no, just use the recomended stuff and be done with it. These oil questions always get beat to death with no real winners. Your minds are made up before you type. any oil is better than no oil.
By cih7250 on Wednesday, October 14, 2009 - 12:21 pm: Edit Post
Amsoil Series 2000 Synthetic Chaincase Oil Product Code:TCC-BE can't beat it with a club good stuff.
By doo_dr on Wednesday, October 14, 2009 - 03:13 pm: Edit Post
This is a slippery thread LOL!!! I like the timing change comparison. They are identical in style and application. But on the other side I do not think it takes 100hp to turn a cam and heat builds on stressing metal. Standard or synthetic doesn't really matter in a chanincase but for one reason. Temp flow. I personally use the standard Amsoil 75-90 gearlube and have been satified for years. I figure that a smart sledder lets his entire sled warm up before hamering on it so you don't really need to worry about gear case oil flow unless you are ram roding a cold sled. If you do, you'll probably have to contend with cold seizing before chaincase failure. Remember that the chain case oil process is a bathing/slinging process. If you have oil leaks it's not from the type of oil used. Think of it as a water resistant jacket compared to a waterproof jacket. By the way. Manuals don't give specs other than OEM because they want you to buy their pretty package!!! I used cooking oil in our watercross sled. It was pretty cool to dump it (the sled) and when you opened the chain case the water and oil had already seperated like a salad dressing.
By aesynthetics on Wednesday, October 14, 2009 - 11:25 pm: Edit Post
What cih7250 said! For $4.55 a 12oz. bottle you can't go wrong. I can set you up as a preferred customer if you wish. I used to have lube expansion, heat and exterior residue on various sleds, not anymore! Also got tired of the price at the dealerships. Check out "A study of automotive gear lubes" and after you'll wonder why everyone isn't running Amsoil gear lubricants and oils.
By magie03 on Thursday, October 15, 2009 - 10:39 pm: Edit Post
I think I'll try waste oil, I can get that for free from a local repair shop. LOL
By vw56german on Friday, October 16, 2009 - 08:34 am: Edit Post
Hmm, waste oil.... I bet you could get a sweet synthetic blend that way. Something like: 0w-5w-10w-15w-20w-30w-40-50w-80w-90w-115 Talk about all weather!
By magie03 on Friday, October 16, 2009 - 08:41 am: Edit Post
You have it all figured out vw56german
By doo_dr on Friday, October 16, 2009 - 10:01 am: Edit Post
Then you describe what your blend like Johnny Cash sings "One Piece at a Time".
By obob on Sunday, October 18, 2009 - 11:57 pm: Edit Post
Quite honestly, I think most Vehicles have had Timing Belts for probably more than 20 Years now and No oil for lube. Hum ?
By ezra on Monday, October 19, 2009 - 12:06 am: Edit Post
By vx700xtc on Monday, October 19, 2009 - 12:38 am: Edit Post
You might be surprised at how many engines still use a timing chain.