View Full Version : 2002 polaris 500fuji motor won't barely running
09-28-2009, 08:01 PM
my 500 classic fuji motor is running like it lost a cyl, but i have 116 lb's of comp in the clutch side cyl and 120 in the otherside. i do have spark in both wire's. had the top end rebuilt at the start of last year and it ran a little rich all winter. no visable leak's around the block or cyl base's. last ride of the season last winter it seemed to let go instantly and had to chug it back between 25 and 30 mph for about 25 miles. could get it to chug along if i kept it at half throttle letting of or rolling on to much throttle it would pretty much die.. sled's got about 6000 hard miles on it but it's been maintained religiously and carb's were set up and dialed in by goodwin also they did my rebuild.. trying to save my self some$ and trying to fix it myself.. any one have any idea's or lead me in a diretion on what to look at.. (about 600 miles since the rebuild which was on the clutch side cyl)
09-28-2009, 10:41 PM
You didn't mention what "let go" meant. If that meant it started chugging you should check your clutches. I was convinced that my doo was messed up a couple of years ago but it was just dirty clutches that wouldn't let it shift properly.
My other suggestion, based on my Doo experiences, would be to check the integrity of your plug boots. The spring-loaded brass insert inside the boots have a tendency to wear and lock-up over time causing the cap to arc. Made mine run like it was on one cylinder.
Had a similar problem on my wife's XLT 2 yrs ago, but instead of the cap, the terminal-nut on the top had wobbled out over the span of 1 day and became lodged in the cap itself.
The pitiful part of the latter scenario is that they were brand new plugs, $4 NGK's (bought out of fear that my older plugs 'couldn't' be good anymore) and all 3 were messed up that way.
09-29-2009, 03:53 PM
Not realy enough info to go on here. But if you realy think it is running on one cylander and you said that you had it running rich I would say you fowled a plug. try changing the plugs and see what happens.
see if each cyl sucks,squeezes, bangs,and blows!! Then check clutches as JW suggests
09-30-2009, 11:51 AM
Crank Bearings gone.I have seen this before,ok compresson test with bad bearings.Let us know what was wrong.
09-30-2009, 11:54 AM
I know you want to save some money here but if you had it rebuilt by goodwin give them a call and talk to them and let them know what is up. If they messed up they will make it write. A quick check at home is to look at the wires also. Could be cracked. If I am not mistaked I think on that model the wire also "screws" into the coil. If that is the case $10 worth of wire and you have them both replaced, might take care of your problem. Spray a little wd40 or starting fluid (I would use wd 40) behind the clutch when it is running and see if the motor changes RPM's any. This will tell you quickly if your seal is going.
09-30-2009, 01:44 PM
Could be your clutches - if they are not opening and closing properly, you loose your ratio (like trying to take off with your car in 3rd gear). If the clutches don't release, it will die when you let off the throttle (like hitting the brakes without pushing in the clutch on a car). Goodwin is a perfect place to ask about this as well.
09-30-2009, 06:08 PM
I have owned two Indy 500's, one with over 8500 hard miles on it and still going strong. I would say you are running on one cylinder or running very rich and warm temps. Have you started the sled since it started having problems? If not start it and see what it does. What I have found is with the stock jetting the sled will bog when about 45F and the engine is hot. I was running in NE WI on a warm day 45F and when I stopped the sled would not move again since the engine and the combustion air was too hot for the jetting. I lowered the main needle all the way down and it resolved the issue. I have also had one of the carb cables become disconnected from the carb for no reason. Idled fine but obviously no power when trying to move. I have also had many issues with spark plug caps being loose.
09-30-2009, 09:27 PM
thank's for the help so far everyone. over the weekend i will replace the wire's and cap's.. the clutch was gone over by goodwin when i had the top end rebuilt. they replaced the spring and said every thing else look's good. have had a lot of friend's use goodwin and know the have a very good reputation. the day it stopped running right it was in the 20's and we were running to big bay from l'anse in about 6 inches of new powder,and the temp light never came on . but i'll test it to make sure it's not burned out..we were running fast and hard that day and being on only a 500 i was pretty much wide open for about 30 miles..so loosing the crank has crossed my mind..i will try the wd 40 trick if i can get it fired up. if this helps any when it started running bad it happened instantly coming out of a fast corner and when i pinned the throttle it happened instantly (ran like it was on one cyl)changed the plug's twice on the way back and the clutch side one was showing that side to be running richer but the plug's wern't that dark .. thank's
10-01-2009, 08:47 PM
I meant driven clutch, not the drive clutch. But it easily could have been something that broke while you were riding (after the rebuild).
Your description is exactly what happened when my boot cap wore out.
Are the coils hot-shorting? It wouldn't be fun, but if you waited till winter and changed the plug wires around, you could isolate it to the coils/wires.
10-25-2009, 11:47 PM
kinda got it running.. replaced the plug cap on the clutch side and have good spark in both wire's and caps.. when i got it running warming it up y pipe felt equally hot and both side's of cyl's and base of motor felt the same temp wise to the touch . after getting it fully up to temp on the stand from 1/2 to full throttle it seemed to run ok but the minute i let of the throttle it bog's out and won't run and dies.. then when i get it restarted it smokes untill i can get up over 4500/5000 rpm's and when the smoke clears out it run's good at 1/2 to full throttle till i let off.. so my only guess now is that it's in the carb's. any one agree or have any other idea's?? oh yea i did flip the plug wire's and used new plug's when it did this so i'm ruling out the ignition and plug issue.. i think.
10-26-2009, 10:39 AM
I had this same issue on a Polaris Indy trail. What it ended up being was a cracked carb boot. I would try and replace them and see if it runs better. The warmer it was outside the worse the bog was.
10-26-2009, 01:02 PM
Either the inlet needles and seats in the carbs are worn letting extra fuel through or a fuel pump diaphram could have a crack in it
10-26-2009, 08:35 PM
I had a 02 Indy 500 ran great for a couple seasons then my son bought a different sled and we didn't ride it much after that. Still had around 4000 miles and started acting up losing power chuggin etc.. Couldn't trust it very far from home and then somebody I worked with mentioned trying some seafoam. Well I'll tell you what after about 15 to 20 miles that sled straightened rite out and ran like you would'nt believe. I almost took it in for service. The 488 fuji is the longest running engine in service 17 or 18 yrs. and was nicknamed the "anvil". I'm not saying that this procedure will help you, but it worked for me.
11-05-2009, 12:13 PM
looking into the carb's this weekend and now the fuelpump thankx so far everyone
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