View Full Version : wildcat issues
12-22-2009, 06:18 PM
i just bought a 1992 wildcat 700, when i got it back to my house and was playing around in the yard i noticed that the speedometer is not working.
now when i was first looking into this sled i heard that the first issue that goes wrong with them is the spedometer and it indicates that the bearings for the drivers are going out. does this make sound right to everyone? and is there anything else like maybe a broken speedo cable that could have caused this to happen?
i can handle doing almost any repair on this sled and if it is the drivers i can do it, but also the track isnt the greatest, it will get me through the winter but not much more. my question is what track will it need? ive got a 121x15 laying around thats in great shape but it came off a polaris and i think the pitches on the drivers may be different so i would like to figure out if it will work.
any input will be much appreciated
12-22-2009, 06:23 PM
I would start with the bearing, Yes they are known to go out, and the speedo it the first indicator. The track should fit it, I donk recall the early wildcat being an odd pitch track. A call to Track USA would answer that though.
12-22-2009, 07:43 PM
thanks, ive also been wondering about any way i can get more traction on the running boards without drilling holes and using a die? and is there any company out there that i can get a set of handle bar risers for this sled? ive been finding a few universal ones but nothing that really has caught my eye yet
12-22-2009, 08:45 PM
Drop the skid, replace the bearings, take the driver and see if it matches EXACTLY what you have for a track. While you are there, check the hyfax, and might as well replace/repair the shocks.
then you won't have to worry about those things for another 5 years or so.
12-23-2009, 12:37 PM
I have put the carbide tipped screws from bergstrom in my running boards for years. The cold cutter motorcycle ice screws work well too. Make sure there are not coolers under there though. several screws in the area where you stand or put your feet, will really help!
12-23-2009, 05:44 PM
ROX grip strips are good, we have them on 1 sled. Like jimfsr said , it's the first sign of that bearing going. Sometimes if your really lucky ( depending on the sled ) you can sneak that bearing in & out without pulling the skid. Those were nice machines , I used to own 1 back in 92-93. They were fuel injected if I remember right, the only problem I had with that was I had the fuel rail freeze up on me. That was way before all the ethanol in fuel. Like anonomouse said, go thru the entire skid, make sure the suspension is good. I would try ROX for the risers also, they have some pretty cool NEW1's.
12-28-2009, 12:20 PM
thanks, i still havent been able to get into my friends shop and i really dont want to do a track swap in an unheated garage, in subzero weather. it seems to ride fine other than that speedomter not working, i had a friend pace me on his polaris and he said we got up around 85 and i still had throttle left.
has anyone here made their own handlebar risers? ive heard of people doing it just never seen it done. ive got access to a full automotive shop so tools are not an issue.
12-28-2009, 12:22 PM
oh and i forgot to mention that everything on the skid is in great shape, the slides have been replaced recently and everything else checked out except for one cover on one of the bogey wheels cracked.
and its the 700 carbed i didnt want to get an efi.
01-06-2010, 06:12 PM
ok, now its got more issues. i blew a belt and of course didnt have the right sized spare so i had to limp back but i noticed then that the brakes were not working worth a damn. then when i got back hom e i noticed that it had been pissing coolant out of the reservoir. does anyone know y it would be doing that? or what the best way yo get at the brakes is other than removing the chaincase? theres not enough room it seems to do it any other way. thanks
The brakes on that sled (if I remember right) are mechanical brakes, you should be able to adjust them by loosening the lock nut & turn in the adjuster bolt. The coolant leak could be as simple as a split in the cap on the resevoir, I have seen this happen before, and again, if I remember right, it was the smaller cap (green). What happens at times, the cap gets tightened a tad too much an causes the top of the cap to crack around the outter edge which you will not notice just glancing at it. How many miles on the sled? If it has 5k or more, when the speedo quits it is usually a result of the drive bearing on that side that is beginning to get sloppy. with higher mileage on it, it is better to be safe than sorry & just change both sides out. Let us know what you find.-Mezz
01-07-2010, 01:09 PM
The speedo cable itself could also be broken at either end. Had that happen on my '88 Wildcat. Possibly the guts of the gauge head. Have had that happen too, was able to take apart and repair. Mezz is spot on about the cap and the brake adjustment although you could have excessive cable strech with age and/or need new shoes.
01-08-2010, 03:02 PM
thanks, i thought the coolant might just be that it was overfilled and it was coming out of the overflow but ill check the cap. and while i was trying to work on the brakes clearance was way too much of an issue so it will have to wait till i get the new bearings in so i only have to pull the chaincase off once.
where should i order the bearings? i found them on dennis kirk but i was wondering if i just go to napa can i get them from there or do i actually have to get bearings that are specifically for the drivers? and your right on, the sled has 5400 miles or thats what it says it hasnt changed and i probably put close to a hundred miles onto it before i blew the belt.
check motor mounts sled has some torque if you have a bad mount at wot motor could twist and blow a belt.stick a pry bar in a few spots and try to move motor.I had a wildcat that I pulled the left rear mount out of the bulk head .but that sled was abused every second of its short life
01-18-2010, 05:07 PM
ok, i finally got around to checking the spedo out and i noticed that the key was snapped, was it caused by the bearings going out? also are these the right bearings?
and do i have to get these or can i go and get them cross referenced from a hardware store or napa?
01-19-2010, 06:05 PM
Yep (broken key) and that brg should have a 1" bore and you can even get the brgs at Farm and Fleet or FleetFarm $11.00 isn't a bad price until I saw CHINA.
bigsteve, check out arcticcatpartshouse.net, their site has parts lists for almost anything. As stated in prior post, you might as well do both sides. My .02 would be to get the original parts, at least you know they are reliable. There are 2 seperate part numbers listed for each side. For a few extra bucks, you might as well put in new seal as well. Hope that helps.-Mezz
01-20-2010, 10:24 AM
I also suggest you do both bearings. These sleds were torque monsters and like to rip the bearings out along with the motor mounts. Also check all the coolant lines for routing and rubbing. They had a problem with the lines rubbing on the engine and the body. A larger hose used as a sleeve over the line in the contact areas will correct the problem. Good luck
01-20-2010, 04:26 PM
ok i checked on arcticcatpartshouse.net and in the drawing they only had the bearing on the clutch side listed. is there something im missing or are they the same bearings on both sides?
bigsteve, go back into that site, there are 2 different bearings. Look under "Drivetrain Shafts & Brake Assembly" for the bearing on the clutch side (0107-074). Then use the drop down to "Drive Dropcase Assembly" for the bearing on the chaincase side (0107-224). Don't quote me on the part numbers, but these are the places to look for them.-Mezz
01-20-2010, 06:14 PM
thanks, i was only looking at the drivetrain assembly one before. now i have a week to wait for shipping. might as well start on the brakes.
02-12-2010, 05:57 PM
ok, now anyone who has had one of these sleds is there any way to access the brakes to work on them short of taking the chaincase off? ive been trying for some time now and i havent had any luck at all
Steve, I had a '91 & it has been awhile & don't recall if there was a change in '92. I believe there is a mounting bracket that is bolted to the top of the chain case which you should be able to remove & slip the caliper assembly out. No need to remove the chain case itself.-Mezz
02-15-2010, 04:04 PM
i finally got it done, i couldnt back out the jam nut so i just forced the bolt in, it took a long time and alot of force but i finally got my brakes working. i tried to remove the caliper but there was just no way i could get enough clearance even with taking the can and the oil/coolant reservoir off. now im having issues with the recoil, i snapped off the rope when i was trying to start it the other day and nowi cant get it to work properly, ive replaced the rope but when i pull on it, it makes a wierd clanking noise and wont turn the motor. ive been starting it with a rope off of the clutch but its a bit of a pain in the *** when the motors cold and it takes 6 or 7 pulls
The Recoil issue sounds to me like you need to remove the rope from the pulley & rewind the spring a tad, the dogs are probably not grabbing due to poor spring tension.-Mezz
02-16-2010, 02:02 AM
idk, i did rewind it pretty well when i put the new rope on it but ill check into it again. and the bolts holding the recoil on keep backing out. i went out to take a look at it tonight and theres only one bolt holding the entire thing on.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.1.12 Copyright © 2013 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.