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  1. #1

    Default Polaris 600 edge tech tips

    I had a 2001 EDGE-X 600 that was extremely well dialed in for a "stocker". Here's some tips that may be useful.

    BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK MODS

    1) HOLTZMAN ATAAC, spot on jetting ALL the time, improves throttle response and mileage (www.holtzmaneng.com) approx $240.00, I had this on my 2 sleds and 3 of my bud's, E-Z (less than 1 hour install) does everything it says.

    2) HOT SEAT PERFORMANCE or BMP heads, for use w/91 octane, easy bolt-on, improves bottom end and mid-range GRUNT!!!

    3) 96 or More studs, I ran (144) 1.3125" Woody's Gold Mege Bite square tip Studs with the 1.25" square plastic backers, traction is where it's at, all the H.P. and clutching in the world will be useless unless you're coupled to the ground.


    almost FREE MODS

    PRIMARY CLUTCH:

    1) Set your belt to primary sheave side clearance, should be .010" to .015" w/NEW belt, mine was .070" from the factory. This improves acceleration and reduces the slamming effect onto the crankshaft upon engagement thereby further extending crank shaft life.

    2) Install a new primary clutch spring @ the start of every season. (approx $30.00) I ran the stock Dark Blue/White with 60 grams weights, some guys preferred 61 or 62's

    3) Send your clutch out to have it balanced (preferably after you've set the belt to sheave side clearance) only $35.00, extends clutch and crankshaft life and reduces vibration, well worth doing, XCR1250 (Here on H.C.S.) and others offer this service.


    SECONDARY

    1) Install a new secondary spring at the start of every season (approx $30.00)

    2) Check / replace (3) plastic wear buttons, they're only $1.00 each


    BOTH PRIMARY & SECONDARY

    1) Align your clutches (offset and center to center), You may have to shim behind the rear engine bracket with thin Chevrolet style starter shims (available @ auto parts stores under the "HELP' brand) to get it perfect.

    2) Lightly sand BOTH primary and secondary clutches w/180 grit perpendicular to the way the belt rides and wipe down w/lacquer thinner.

    3) Wash/scrub (with a plastic bristle brush) w/soap & HOT water your new belt and let dry overnight, sounds weird, but it removes the "mold release" compound that would otherwise would get smeared all over your nice clean clutches.

    4) I prefer the # 3211087 (close tolerance belt) over the # 3211080 (standard edge belt) although your dealer may have to order it for you.



    ENGINE LIMITER

    Install a WMS TORQUE ARM engine limiter on the PTO side, approx $83.00, E-Z installation SLP part # 23-52, also available from TRI-CITY POLARIS



    EXHAUST VALVES

    1) ) Clean your exhaust valves and valve bores, they're probably dirtier/gummier than you think, also clean the bores with some carb cleaner/lacquer thinner on a shop rag and run that in & out on the exhaust valve bores a bit. Avoid using the wire wheel to clean the aluminum valves as they have a hardened coating on them and the wire wheel will end up damaging that.

    2) Exhaust bellows, check for small rips and tears. The original exhaust bellows were blue, the latest and greatest bellows are Orange in color.



    CHECK AND RESET YOUR T.P.S. (Easier to do than you realize)

    1) Look at the pinned topics at the top of the PRO-X section, there's a thread tells you how to build your own tester for less than $10.00 with parts from Radio Shack, double check the voltage on your tester, DON'T OVERLOOK THIS, you want 5.000 volts EXACTLY!

    2) For those that don't want to build a T.P.S. tester, I just purchased a T.P.S. tester (manufactured by KENT-MOORE / SPX) from my local POLARIS dealer for $48.76 PART # 2201519-A Comes with the pigtail, 2 plug ends, 5 volt regulator, harness. All you need then is a 9-volt battery and a voltmeter. Works on sleds, ATV's & Rangers. With this "store bought unit" you still need to verify the 5.000 volts prior to testing.

    3) The EDGE's get set at WIDE OPEN THROTTLE, spec is 4.0-4.1 volts.

    4) Move the throttle gradually from idle to full throttle and back down again while watching the needle on your analog style voltmeter as you want it to move gradually in synch with the throttle, an erratic needle reading indicates a faulty T.P.S. and replace if necessary.



    CHAIN CASE

    1) Open up your chain case at the start of every season, wipe out the muck and metal shavings.

    2) Check your chain tension in the chain case, adjust it to where the chain will almost touch the backside of the case w/finger pressure.

    3) Place a metal straight edge onto the sprockets and make sure they're PERFECTLY in line. You can obtain some 1" I.D. valve spring shims from the auto parts stores or automotive cylinder head rebuilding shops, they come in a variety of thicknesses, .030", .060" These shims also fit the secondary shaft for fine tuning the offset and free play.



    OTHER: OIL PUMP CALIBRATION, TRACK TENSION, MAINTENANCE:

    1) Check your oil pump calibration , I used 1 quart of oil in approx 160-165 miles, check with a light and mirror, look for the alignment marks to line up as a starting point. 40:1 is 1 quart per 10 gallons of fuel, I prefer to run @ 55:1 or 60:1 (approx 22 ounces per 10 gallons of fuel) There's a picture of the oil pump posted in the IQ section, thread pinned at the top TECH TIPS FOR 600/700/800 Free Mods and Best Bang for the Buck

    2) Run your track looser that specs, approx 1" to 1 1/2" sag just sitting there on the stand.


    SKI's

    1) Check ski alignment, 1/8" toe out is preferred

    2) Check out www.bergstromskegs.com Very informative site, especially the info on shimming the stock skis to eliminate the "darting" issue instead of purchasing a $350.00 pair of skis



    THAT ANNOYING HIGH IDLE PROBLEM

    1) Replace the .9 PILOT AIR JET with a 1.0 (Can be seen from the air box side looking into the carb throat)

    2) Reduce idle speed to 1400 R.P.M.

    3) Make sure the T.P.S. is set to 4.0 volts, and not higher



    DEBATABLE

    SLP Big Air Kit and Flo-Rites, ($42.95 + (2) X $19.95= approx $83.00) E-Z to install, I just didn't notice any difference that's all. However, they do cause a noticeable increase in intake noise, if you like your sled quiet, don't do this mod.



    COLD START TIP

    On the night before, use the choke to "kill" the engine instead of the switch. The fuel dilutes/washes the oil off of the cylinder wall and makes starting the engine on a cold morning so much easier.



    WASTE OF $$$$$ I.M.O.

    1) V-Force reeds, maybe slightly more responsive on it's best day, V-force's were definitely NOT worth the $258.00 and installation time!!

    2) Aftermarket Silencers, even with the weight reduction, they'll slow you down and for those of you who think it's "cool" remember that next time you come across a "trail closed" sign.

    3) Roller Secondary. The "old style" button secondary is faster on top end.

    4) Boost bottles

    5) 8" rear wheels

    6) Anti-ratchet drive wheels



    Hope this helps

    PICS ARE POSTED ON hardcoresledder.com (TECH TIPS Thread Pinned at the top of the XC section)
    Last edited by kraven700; 11-20-2010 at 09:47 PM.

  2. #2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kraven700 View Post
    I had a 2001 EDGE-X 600 that was extremely well dialed in for a "stocker". Here's some tips that may be useful.

    BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK MODS

    1) HOLTZMAN ATAAC, spot on jetting ALL the time, improves throttle response and mileage (www.holtzmaneng.com) approx $240.00, I had this on my 2 sleds and 3 of my bud's, E-Z (less than 1 hour install) does everything it says.

    2) HOT SEAT PERFORMANCE or BMP heads, for use w/91 octane, easy bolt-on, improves bottom end and mid-range GRUNT!!!

    3) 96 or More studs, I ran (144) 1.3125" Woody's Gold Mege Bite square tip Studs with the 1.25" square plastic backers, traction is where it's at, all the H.P. and clutching in the world will be useless unless you're coupled to the ground.


    almost FREE MODS

    PRIMARY CLUTCH:

    1) Set your belt to primary sheave side clearance, should be .010" to .015" w/NEW belt, mine was .070" from the factory. This improves acceleration and reduces the slamming effect onto the crankshaft upon engagement thereby further extending crank shaft life.

    2) Install a new primary clutch spring @ the start of every season. (approx $30.00) I ran the stock Dark Blue/White with 60 grams weights, some guys preferred 61 or 62's

    3) Send your clutch out to have it balanced (preferably after you've set the belt to sheave side clearance) only $35.00, extends clutch and crankshaft life and reduces vibration, well worth doing, XCR1250 (Here on H.C.S.) and others offer this service.


    SECONDARY

    1) Install a new secondary spring at the start of every season (approx $30.00)

    2) Check / replace (3) plastic wear buttons, they're only $1.00 each


    BOTH PRIMARY & SECONDARY

    1) Align your clutches (offset and center to center), You may have to shim behind the rear engine bracket with thin Chevrolet style starter shims (available @ auto parts stores under the "HELP' brand) to get it perfect.

    2) Lightly sand BOTH primary and secondary clutches w/180 grit perpendicular to the way the belt rides and wipe down w/lacquer thinner.

    3) Wash/scrub (with a plastic bristle brush) w/soap & HOT water your new belt and let dry overnight, sounds weird, but it removes the "mold release" compound that would otherwise would get smeared all over your nice clean clutches.

    4) I prefer the # 3211087 (close tolerance belt) over the # 3211080 (standard edge belt) although your dealer may have to order it for you.



    ENGINE LIMITER

    Install a WMS TORQUE ARM engine limiter on the PTO side, approx $83.00, E-Z installation SLP part # 23-52, also available from TRI-CITY POLARIS



    EXHAUST VALVES

    1) ) Clean your exhaust valves and valve bores, they're probably dirtier/gummier than you think, also clean the bores with some carb cleaner/lacquer thinner on a shop rag and run that in & out on the exhaust valve bores a bit. Avoid using the wire wheel to clean the aluminum valves as they have a hardened coating on them and the wire wheel will end up damaging that.

    2) Exhaust bellows, check for small rips and tears. The original exhaust bellows were blue, the latest and greatest bellows are Orange in color.



    CHECK AND RESET YOUR T.P.S. (Easier to do than you realize)

    1) Look at the pinned topics at the top of the PRO-X section, there's a thread tells you how to build your own tester for less than $10.00 with parts from Radio Shack, double check the voltage on your tester, DON'T OVERLOOK THIS, you want 5.000 volts EXACTLY!

    2) For those that don't want to build a T.P.S. tester, I just purchased a T.P.S. tester (manufactured by KENT-MOORE / SPX) from my local POLARIS dealer for $48.76 PART # 2201519-A Comes with the pigtail, 2 plug ends, 5 volt regulator, harness. All you need then is a 9-volt battery and a voltmeter. Works on sleds, ATV's & Rangers. With this "store bought unit" you still need to verify the 5.000 volts prior to testing.

    3) The EDGE's get set at WIDE OPEN THROTTLE, spec is 4.0-4.1 volts.

    4) Move the throttle gradually from idle to full throttle and back down again while watching the needle on your analog style voltmeter as you want it to move gradually in synch with the throttle, an erratic needle reading indicates a faulty T.P.S. and replace if necessary.



    CHAIN CASE

    1) Open up your chain case at the start of every season, wipe out the muck and metal shavings.

    2) Check your chain tension in the chain case, adjust it to where the chain will almost touch the backside of the case w/finger pressure.

    3) Place a metal straight edge onto the sprockets and make sure they're PERFECTLY in line. You can obtain some 1" I.D. valve spring shims from the auto parts stores or automotive cylinder head rebuilding shops, they come in a variety of thicknesses, .030", .060" These shims also fit the secondary shaft for fine tuning the offset and free play.



    OTHER: OIL PUMP CALIBRATION, TRACK TENSION, MAINTENANCE:

    1) Check your oil pump calibration , I used 1 quart of oil in approx 160-165 miles, check with a light and mirror, look for the alignment marks to line up as a starting point. 40:1 is 1 quart per 10 gallons of fuel, I prefer to run @ 55:1 or 60:1 (approx 22 ounces per 10 gallons of fuel) There's a picture of the oil pump posted in the IQ section, thread pinned at the top TECH TIPS FOR 600/700/800 Free Mods and Best Bang for the Buck

    2) Run your track looser that specs, approx 1" to 1 1/2" sag just sitting there on the stand.


    SKI's

    1) Check ski alignment, 1/8" toe out is preferred

    2) Check out www.bergstromskegs.com Very informative site, especially the info on shimming the stock skis to eliminate the "darting" issue instead of purchasing a $350.00 pair of skis



    THAT ANNOYING HIGH IDLE PROBLEM

    1) Replace the .9 PILOT AIR JET with a 1.0 (Can be seen from the air box side looking into the carb throat)

    2) Reduce idle speed to 1400 R.P.M.

    3) Make sure the T.P.S. is set to 4.0 volts, and not higher



    DEBATABLE

    SLP Big Air Kit and Flo-Rites, ($42.95 + (2) X $19.95= approx $83.00) E-Z to install, I just didn't notice any difference that's all. However, they do cause a noticeable increase in intake noise, if you like your sled quiet, don't do this mod.



    COLD START TIP

    On the night before, use the choke to "kill" the engine instead of the switch. The fuel dilutes/washes the oil off of the cylinder wall and makes starting the engine on a cold morning so much easier.



    WASTE OF $$$$$ I.M.O.

    1) V-Force reeds, maybe slightly more responsive on it's best day, V-force's were definitely NOT worth the $258.00 and installation time!!

    2) Aftermarket Silencers, even with the weight reduction, they'll slow you down and for those of you who think it's "cool" remember that next time you come across a "trail closed" sign.

    3) Roller Secondary. The "old style" button secondary is faster on top end.

    4) Boost bottles

    5) 8" rear wheels

    6) Anti-ratchet drive wheels



    Hope this helps

    PICS ARE POSTED ON hardcoresledder.com (TECH TIPS Thread Pinned at the top of the XC section)
    ttt


    ttt
    Last edited by kraven700; 02-13-2011 at 06:34 PM.

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kraven700 View Post
    ttt


    ttt
    ttt

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Northern Il.
    Posts
    59

    Default tips

    Can't I just bring my sled to your house please????

  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sean34590577 View Post
    Can't I just bring my sled to your house please????
    If I had the extra time, I'd help you out, but the best I can do right now is to help out via this website

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Palatine, IL
    Posts
    237

    Default Slight bog at 20 to 30 under hard accell coming out of turns

    Kraven- I tend to ride the trails aggressively, when im coming out of a turn at 20 30 mph and i crack the throttle, the accelleration isnt crisp, seems like it bogs a little bit untill i gain some speed or engine rpm, even if im cruising down the trail at 20 to 30 and crack the throttle it doesnt respond good, but if im going over 40mph it pulls hard.

    just seems that low to mid range is weak

    any ideas?

    the sled has a goodwin clutch kit, stock gearing, 1 1/4 ripsaw with 144 studs, off the line this thing pulls pretty hard

    thanks

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by simonsr1 View Post
    Kraven- I tend to ride the trails aggressively, when im coming out of a turn at 20 30 mph and i crack the throttle, the accelleration isnt crisp, seems like it bogs a little bit untill i gain some speed or engine rpm, even if im cruising down the trail at 20 to 30 and crack the throttle it doesnt respond good, but if im going over 40mph it pulls hard.

    just seems that low to mid range is weak

    any ideas?

    the sled has a goodwin clutch kit, stock gearing, 1 1/4 ripsaw with 144 studs, off the line this thing pulls pretty hard

    thanks
    Are you thinking it's not back-shifting??

    If so, give Greg Goodwin a call since he's most familiar with his kit.

    My bud dealt with him on the chassis dyno a few times, seems to be a knowledgeable + fair guy to deal with.

    If that's not it, what does your plugs and piston wash look like?

    Perhaps runnin a little rich?

    Read the plugs and let that guide your decision.

    As a GENERAL rule, I run 2 sizes leaner than stock,

    or

    Stock jetting with the HOLTZMAN ATAAC, but let me stress again, that's a GENERAL RULE.

    Read your plugs + piston wash and let that guide your decision

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Palatine, IL
    Posts
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    Default

    Thanks for the input, I will check it out, I dont know when since the snow is gone, its hard to find time to take a day and just go out and screw with adjustments,

    when you say 2 jets leaner do mean just the main jet or all the jets?, all the other sled I have had I have always leaned them out, 1 or 2 main jet sizes. this one I left alone, just havent had time to screw with it like I used to.

    if i drop the needel 1 clip would that make all the ranges a little leaner except wide open?

    thanks again

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by simonsr1 View Post
    Thanks for the input, I will check it out, I dont know when since the snow is gone, its hard to find time to take a day and just go out and screw with adjustments,

    when you say 2 jets leaner do mean just the main jet or all the jets?, all the other sled I have had I have always leaned them out, 1 or 2 main jet sizes. this one I left alone, just havent had time to screw with it like I used to.

    if i drop the needel 1 clip would that make all the ranges a little leaner except wide open?

    thanks again
    I meant 2 full sizes LEANER on the main, ex: 430-410

    On the needles, that would affect bottom end and part throttle.

    As a GENERAL rule for needle adjustment, if you suspect but not sure if you're LEAN or RICH in the area you're trying to tune, try this:

    Take the needles, and move them 2 full notches,( in either direction) see if that helps or hurts performance, then go back and re-adjust.

    If you carry a metric allen wrench+ a phillips screwdriver with you on the trail, you can fine tune it on -the-fly.

    Once again, I would try to talk people into buying the HOLTZMAN ATAAC, a fantastic product, spot-on jetting all the time, simple install, and improves throttle response and mileage as well.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Palatine, IL
    Posts
    237

    Default

    Thats what I thought, I double checked my carbs, I did drop the main jet 1 size to a 420, I dont know if I want to go any leaner on the main, It seems everytime I go on a trip its 10 to 20 below zero for at least 1 of the days. If I get out again, I'll mess with the needle, I would buy the holtzman product, but Im starting to look for a new sled, then I will probably get that. with the holtzman product, how hard is it to set up, do you have to keep an eye on piston wash? or once its set up your done.

    thanks

    also what was your top speed on your 01 600, mine is about 82 mph. with a gps, it pulls really good untill about 60 and then slowly to 82

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Greenville Wi
    Posts
    7,554

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by simonsr1 View Post
    Thats what I thought, I double checked my carbs, I did drop the main jet 1 size to a 420, I dont know if I want to go any leaner on the main, It seems everytime I go on a trip its 10 to 20 below zero for at least 1 of the days. If I get out again, I'll mess with the needle, I would buy the holtzman product, but Im starting to look for a new sled, then I will probably get that. with the holtzman product, how hard is it to set up, do you have to keep an eye on piston wash? or once its set up your done.

    thanks

    also what was your top speed on your 01 600, mine is about 82 mph. with a gps, it pulls really good untill about 60 and then slowly to 82
    82 doesn't sound right, that should do 95 MINIMUM

  12. #12
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    Dec 2009
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    Palatine, IL
    Posts
    237

    Default school

    Indy-shouldnt you be in school?

  13. #13
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    Dec 2009
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    Palatine, IL
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by indy_500 View Post
    82 doesn't sound right, that should do 95 MINIMUM
    I know, my 2000 xc 500 was faster on top end, i didnt know if it had to do with the extra weight of the track and picks

  14. #14
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by simonsr1 View Post
    Indy-shouldnt you be in school?
    i am in school i finished autocad early so i get to play on computer

  15. #15
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    Dec 2009
    Location
    Palatine, IL
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    Default

    Im getting closer to you in posts, finally became a senior member, lol

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Greenville Wi
    Posts
    7,554

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by simonsr1 View Post
    Im getting closer to you in posts, finally became a senior member, lol
    i'm a senior member too i miss the old "status' " the ones that said "i spend too much time on here and need to get a life" or something like that

  17. #17
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    Dec 2009
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    Default

    I noticed you doubled your posts in less than a year, at least your staying out of trouble

  18. #18
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    Greenville Wi
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by simonsr1 View Post
    I noticed you doubled your posts in less than a year, at least your staying out of trouble
    yup

    What rpm does your sled max out at? You could have too heavy of weights losing top end.

  19. #19

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by simonsr1 View Post
    Thats what I thought, I double checked my carbs, I did drop the main jet 1 size to a 420, I dont know if I want to go any leaner on the main, It seems everytime I go on a trip its 10 to 20 below zero for at least 1 of the days. If I get out again, I'll mess with the needle, I would buy the holtzman product, but Im starting to look for a new sled, then I will probably get that. with the holtzman product, how hard is it to set up, do you have to keep an eye on piston wash? or once its set up your done.

    thanks

    also what was your top speed on your 01 600, mine is about 82 mph. with a gps, it pulls really good untill about 60 and then slowly to 82
    HOLTZMAN is 100% plug + play, maybe a 1 hour install for a first timer, then jet for -20 (usually stock jetting) and ride.

    Never fiddle with jets, or needles, or the HOLTZMAN unit again

    I personally installed the HOLTZMAN on my 2 EDGE's, + 3 for my buds. The HOLTZMAN ATAAC work that well, impressive product!


    My 2001 600 had:
    60 gram weights with the stock DARK BLUE/white primary spring ( 58's were stock)

    HOT SEAT HEAD (otherwise 100% stock)

    400 mains for 2-3 seasons (Then 430 MAINS AFTER THE HOLTZMAN INSTALL)

    144 1.3125 Woody's Studs w/Saber 1 1/4" square plastic backers,
    RUN THE TRACK LOOSE!

    CLUTCH for between 8000-8100 R.P.M.


    It would read an E-Z around 100 on the Dream-o-meter, however the acceleration is what I was focused on more than the top speed, after all, how often do you get to run at the c-note.
    Last edited by kraven700; 02-18-2011 at 11:31 AM.

  20. #20
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    Default

    7800, Pretty sure thats where i want to be. im not sure but i think the weights are 62 grams

  21. #21
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    Dec 2009
    Location
    Palatine, IL
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by simonsr1 View Post
    Thats what I thought, I double checked my carbs, I did drop the main jet 1 size to a 420, I dont know if I want to go any leaner on the main, It seems everytime I go on a trip its 10 to 20 below zero for at least 1 of the days. If I get out again, I'll mess with the needle, I would buy the holtzman product, but Im starting to look for a new sled, then I will probably get that. with the holtzman product, how hard is it to set up, do you have to keep an eye on piston wash? or once its set up your done.

    thanks

    also what was your top speed on your 01 600, mine is about 82 mph. with a gps, it pulls really good untill about 60 and then slowly to 82
    ,

  22. #22

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by simonsr1 View Post
    7800, Pretty sure thats where i want to be. im not sure but i think the weights are 62 grams
    62's are TOO HEAVY, replace 'em with 60's.

    8000+ R.P.M. is where you need to be for a 600

    7800-7900 R.P.M. for a 800

  23. #23
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    Dec 2009
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    Palatine, IL
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    Default

    THANKS CRAVEN, Ill give this a try, as you said, im also looking for hard accelleration, I like being able to pull my buddies out of the hole

    I know everybody says that the speedos are off, but mine reads just a little higher than my gps, speedo 85, gps 82

    is that because of the track im using?

  24. #24

    Default

    ttt

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Too far from the snow
    Posts
    2,235

    Default

    I'm intrigued by that ATTAC kit....pardon my ignorance, but would it be easy to install on a 600 Fusion also?

    Thanks.

  26. #26

    Default Holtzman ataac

    Quote Originally Posted by Hoosier View Post
    I'm intrigued by that ATTAC kit....pardon my ignorance, but would it be easy to install on a 600 Fusion also?

    Thanks.
    VERY E-Z, kinda like that gal in High School, lol

    Less that 1 hour even if you've never done it before.

    Need to drill 2 holes in the air box to mount the (2) components, and one in the carb lid (for a vacuum source)

    Contact Barry Holtzman in Eagle River Wisconsin, he actually answers the phone, a fuel system guru.

    I personally purchased one of these units back in 2002, let it sit on the shelf for a season before I installed it, surprised something that "basic" in appearance could work so well.

    Improves throttle response, mileage, performance.

    After the install, set your MAIN jets and needle positions to the recommended setting for MINUS 20* Farenheit !!!

    I installed the ATAAC on my (2) EDGE's and 3 of my bud's EDGE's that ride in our group.

    As stated, BEST BANG for the BUCK on a carbed sled, period!
    Last edited by kraven700; 06-18-2011 at 12:25 AM.

  27. #27

    Default

    E-Z install, approx 1 hour.

    It'll be the BEST $245.oo you'll ever spend on a carbed sled, period!

  28. #28
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    Dec 2009
    Location
    Too far from the snow
    Posts
    2,235

    Default

    Forgot to tell you, thanks for the info. If I stretch out my Fusion 600, I will probably do this upgrade also, so it is ready to go at different altitudes.

  29. #29

    Default

    Ttt

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