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  1. #1

    Default Polaris 600/700/800 cfi tech tips

    BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK MODS

    Get a $25.00 annual subscription from DYNOTECH www.dynotechresearch.com

    PC-5 from DYNOTECH Jim, best $365.00 you'll spend, (585) 993-2777 (www.dynotechresearch.com) Add the AUTO-TUNE option for $250.00 more.

    96 or More studs, traction is where it's at, all the power/clutching in the world is useless if you're not coupled to the ground.


    almost FREE MODS

    PRIMARY CLUTCH:

    1) Check your belt to primary sheave side clearance, should be .010" to .015" w/NEW belt, mine was .070" from the factory.

    2) Install a new primary clutch spring @ the start of every season. (approx $31.00)

    SECONDARY

    1) Install (1) DELRIN washer under the spring cup in your secondary clutch (less than $5.00)

    2) Install a new secondary clutch spring @ the beginning of every season. (approx $25.00)


    BOTH PRIMARY & SECONDARY

    1) Align your clutches (center to center 11.5" exactly, and check for engine "crooked", picture posted below of how the alignment tool SHOULD contact the front and rear of the secondary) Check this with the SLP or TEAM tool, as the Genuine GOLD Plated POLARIS tool has approx .070" of built in "kick'
    A) WITH SLP PUSH LIMITER: 0 to .020" air gap @ the rear of the secondary
    B) WITHOUT SLP push limiter: .020" to .040" air gap @ the rear of the secondary
    You may have to slot the engine bracket(s) to case engine case holes get it perfect. These are the holes located directly BELOW the engine itself. On mine & my bud's 07 D7 we had to slot the Mag side engine bracket almost 3/8" to "straighten" things out. Picture of the Mag side slotted engine bracket posted below, do this step ONLY if necessary. DO NOT SLOT THE ENGINE TO RUBBER MOTOR MOUNT HOLES. Double check your c/c measurement after you get the engine "straight" and then slot both engine brackets an equal amount (if necessary) to obtain 11.5" center to center exactly.

    2) Check and adjust clutch offset, do this AFTER the above has been completed. This is E-Z, just adjust shims on the secondary shaft until the secondary touches the alignment bar. You want approx .030" of free play as well.

    3) Lightly sand both primary and secondary clutches w/180 grit perpendicular to the way the belt rides and wipe down w/lacquer thinner.

    4) Mark the Primary clutch sheave with a fat black marker, and make a few full throttle 1/4 mile runs and see how high the belt rides up, see pic posted below.

    5) Wash/scrub (plastic bristle brush) your BRAND NEW belt w/soap & hot water, and let dry overnight, sounds weird, but it removes the "mold release" compound that would otherwise would get smeared all over your nice clean clutches.


    T.P.S. CHECKING & RE-SETTING PROCEDURE (easier than you think, don't just trust the dealer to "check" this with the Digital Wrench)

    Check/reset your T.P.S. Pretty E-Z to do, build a tester for $10. Don't overlook this! Log onto SnoWest, IQ section @ the top, there's a "sticky" INCREASING YOUR IQ. All the info is there. Then go to the Polaris 900 section, there's a video that walks you through the process. Two things to keep in mind, the CFI's T.P.S. get set WITH THE THROTTLE BLADES FULLY CLOSED!! Set it @ .70 volts +/- .01 for the 600/700/800 C.F.I.) After that, then open the idle speed screw to the specified setting (.94 -.95 volts +/- .01 but this varies with model). Most dealers/digital wrench don't do this. Then, using an old style analog voltmeter, open and close the throttle gradually, the needle should move SMOOOOOTHLY, an erratic reading indicates a faulty T.P.S. sensor and must be replaced.

    For those that don't want to build a T.P.S. tester, I just purchased a T.P.S. tester (manufactured by KENT-MOORE / SPX) from my local POLARIS dealer for $48.76
    PART # 2201519-A. Comes with the pigtail, 2 plug ends, 5 volt regulator, harness. All you need then is a 9-volt battery and a voltmeter. Even with this set-up you need to verify 5.00 volts EXACTLY before starting to test the T.P.S. Works on sleds, ATV's & Rangers


    OTHER: OIL PUMP CALIBRATION, CHAIN TENSION, TRACK TENSION, ENGINE LIMITER, OTHER PERFORMANCE TIPS, & MAINTENANCE:

    1) Check your oil pump calibration , mine was 38:1 (that's a little more than 1 quart of oil per 10 gallons fuel) stock, 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 turns on the adjuster jam nuts and it's @ 57:1 now (22 TO 23 OUNCES OF OIL PER 10 GALLONS OF GAS) for the last 1200+ miles, marks are suppose to align @ 3:00 position as a starting point. RED dot on the case has a short horizontal mark on it as does the oil pump arm. See picture posted below.

    2) Check your chain tension in the chain-case, adjust it to where the chain will almost touch the backside of the case w/finger pressure. While you're in the chain-case place a metal straight edge onto the sprockets to make sure they're EXACTLY in line. Shim with thin 1" I.D. shims available from automotive cylinder head shops, used as valve spring shims. Same shims also fit onto the secondary shaft for getting the offset "dialed in"

    3) Run your track looser that stock Polaris specs, approx 1" to 1 1/2" sag just sitting there on the stand.

    4) Install a SLP "push arm" engine limiter on the MAG side, approx $40.00, 20 minute installation SLP part # 23-63, picture posted below.

    5) Place a small piece of duct tape over your headlight adjuster knob, prevents, water, snow, ice from being ingested into your engine.

    6) Remove the air-box and wipe the seam area down with lacquer thinner and duct tape the seam, prevents Kevlar belt dust from being ingested into your engine

    7) Plug the exhaust purge hoses coming off the exhaust valves, this makes it like the 2001-2005 set-ups and definitely improves acceleration

    8) Install a simple 1/4" shutoff (available @ hardware stores) onto the P.T.O. head where the coolant line heats up the throttle bodies, this comes stock on 2007 Ski-Doo 800's and other models

    9) Clean your exhaust valves AND bores, their dirtier and gummier than you think. While you're there check the bellows for small rips and tears.

    10) Check your black rubber throttle body adapters because they have a habit of de-laminating/cracking causing air leaks and burn downs. Polaris has since changed part#'s to a "new improved" version


    SKI's

    1) Check ski alignment, 1/8" toe out is preferred

    2) Check out www.bergstromskegs.com Very informative site, especially the info on shimming the stock skis to eliminate the "darting" issue instead of purchasing a $350.00 pair of skis



    DEBATE-ABLE

    SLP Big Air Kit and Flo-Rites, ($42.95 + (4) X $19.95= approx $122.00) E-Z to install , I just didn't notice any difference that's all.

    WASTE OF $$$$$ I.M.O.

    1) V-Force reeds, NO noticeable improvement, V-force's were definitely NOT worth the $258.00 and a lot of installation time!! In addition, several V-Force users have reported failures after just one season as the CFI sleds run "drier" than carbed sleds/

    2) Aftermarket silencers. Even with the weight reduction, acceleration is slower. And for those of you who think it's "cool", consider this next time you come across a "closed trail" sign. LOUD exhaust closes trails, period.

    3) Boost bottles (Carbed 600 IQ's)

    4) 8" rear wheel kits

    HOPE THIS HELPS!!

    PICS ARE POSTED ON hardcoresledder.com (Pinned at the top of the IQ section) and on SnoWest.com pinned at the top under "INCREASING YOUR IQ" thread.

    PICS BELOW
    OIL PUMP-ALIGNMENT TOOLS, SLOTTED ENGINE BRACKET, SLP PUSH LIMITER,-CLUTCH MARKED (NOT FULLY SHIFTED OUT)
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by kraven700; 11-21-2010 at 06:46 PM.

  2. #2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kraven700 View Post
    BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK MODS

    Get a $25.00 annual subscription from DYNOTECH www.dynotechresearch.com

    PC-5 from DYNOTECH Jim, best $365.00 you'll spend, (585) 993-2777 (www.dynotechresearch.com) Add the AUTO-TUNE option for $250.00 more.

    96 or More studs, traction is where it's at, all the power/clutching in the world is useless if you're not coupled to the ground.


    almost FREE MODS

    PRIMARY CLUTCH:

    1) Check your belt to primary sheave side clearance, should be .010" to .015" w/NEW belt, mine was .070" from the factory.

    2) Install a new primary clutch spring @ the start of every season. (approx $31.00)

    SECONDARY

    1) Install (1) DELRIN washer under the spring cup in your secondary clutch (less than $5.00)

    2) Install a new secondary clutch spring @ the beginning of every season. (approx $25.00)


    BOTH PRIMARY & SECONDARY

    1) Align your clutches (center to center 11.5" exactly, and check for engine "crooked", picture posted below of how the alignment tool SHOULD contact the front and rear of the secondary) Check this with the SLP or TEAM tool, as the Genuine GOLD Plated POLARIS tool has approx .070" of built in "kick'
    A) WITH SLP PUSH LIMITER: 0 to .020" air gap @ the rear of the secondary
    B) WITHOUT SLP push limiter: .020" to .040" air gap @ the rear of the secondary
    You may have to slot the engine bracket(s) to case engine case holes get it perfect. These are the holes located directly BELOW the engine itself. On mine & my bud's 07 D7 we had to slot the Mag side engine bracket almost 3/8" to "straighten" things out. Picture of the Mag side slotted engine bracket posted below, do this step ONLY if necessary. DO NOT SLOT THE ENGINE TO RUBBER MOTOR MOUNT HOLES. Double check your c/c measurement after you get the engine "straight" and then slot both engine brackets an equal amount (if necessary) to obtain 11.5" center to center exactly.

    2) Check and adjust clutch offset, do this AFTER the above has been completed. This is E-Z, just adjust shims on the secondary shaft until the secondary touches the alignment bar. You want approx .030" of free play as well.

    3) Lightly sand both primary and secondary clutches w/180 grit perpendicular to the way the belt rides and wipe down w/lacquer thinner.

    4) Mark the Primary clutch sheave with a fat black marker, and make a few full throttle 1/4 mile runs and see how high the belt rides up, see pic posted below.

    5) Wash/scrub (plastic bristle brush) your BRAND NEW belt w/soap & hot water, and let dry overnight, sounds weird, but it removes the "mold release" compound that would otherwise would get smeared all over your nice clean clutches.


    T.P.S. CHECKING & RE-SETTING PROCEDURE (easier than you think, don't just trust the dealer to "check" this with the Digital Wrench)

    Check/reset your T.P.S. Pretty E-Z to do, build a tester for $10. Don't overlook this! Log onto SnoWest, IQ section @ the top, there's a "sticky" INCREASING YOUR IQ. All the info is there. Then go to the Polaris 900 section, there's a video that walks you through the process. Two things to keep in mind, the CFI's T.P.S. get set WITH THE THROTTLE BLADES FULLY CLOSED!! Set it @ .70 volts +/- .01 for the 600/700/800 C.F.I.) After that, then open the idle speed screw to the specified setting (.94 -.95 volts +/- .01 but this varies with model). Most dealers/digital wrench don't do this. Then, using an old style analog voltmeter, open and close the throttle gradually, the needle should move SMOOOOOTHLY, an erratic reading indicates a faulty T.P.S. sensor and must be replaced.

    For those that don't want to build a T.P.S. tester, I just purchased a T.P.S. tester (manufactured by KENT-MOORE / SPX) from my local POLARIS dealer for $48.76
    PART # 2201519-A. Comes with the pigtail, 2 plug ends, 5 volt regulator, harness. All you need then is a 9-volt battery and a voltmeter. Even with this set-up you need to verify 5.00 volts EXACTLY before starting to test the T.P.S. Works on sleds, ATV's & Rangers


    OTHER: OIL PUMP CALIBRATION, CHAIN TENSION, TRACK TENSION, ENGINE LIMITER, OTHER PERFORMANCE TIPS, & MAINTENANCE:

    1) Check your oil pump calibration , mine was 38:1 (that's a little more than 1 quart of oil per 10 gallons fuel) stock, 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 turns on the adjuster jam nuts and it's @ 57:1 now (22 TO 23 OUNCES OF OIL PER 10 GALLONS OF GAS) for the last 1200+ miles, marks are suppose to align @ 3:00 position as a starting point. RED dot on the case has a short horizontal mark on it as does the oil pump arm. See picture posted below.

    2) Check your chain tension in the chain-case, adjust it to where the chain will almost touch the backside of the case w/finger pressure. While you're in the chain-case place a metal straight edge onto the sprockets to make sure they're EXACTLY in line. Shim with thin 1" I.D. shims available from automotive cylinder head shops, used as valve spring shims. Same shims also fit onto the secondary shaft for getting the offset "dialed in"

    3) Run your track looser that stock Polaris specs, approx 1" to 1 1/2" sag just sitting there on the stand.

    4) Install a SLP "push arm" engine limiter on the MAG side, approx $40.00, 20 minute installation SLP part # 23-63, picture posted below.

    5) Place a small piece of duct tape over your headlight adjuster knob, prevents, water, snow, ice from being ingested into your engine.

    6) Remove the air-box and wipe the seam area down with lacquer thinner and duct tape the seam, prevents Kevlar belt dust from being ingested into your engine

    7) Plug the exhaust purge hoses coming off the exhaust valves, this makes it like the 2001-2005 set-ups and definitely improves acceleration

    8) Install a simple 1/4" shutoff (available @ hardware stores) onto the P.T.O. head where the coolant line heats up the throttle bodies, this comes stock on 2007 Ski-Doo 800's and other models

    9) Clean your exhaust valves AND bores, their dirtier and gummier than you think. While you're there check the bellows for small rips and tears.

    10) Check your black rubber throttle body adapters because they have a habit of de-laminating/cracking causing air leaks and burn downs. Polaris has since changed part#'s to a "new improved" version


    SKI's

    1) Check ski alignment, 1/8" toe out is preferred

    2) Check out www.bergstromskegs.com Very informative site, especially the info on shimming the stock skis to eliminate the "darting" issue instead of purchasing a $350.00 pair of skis



    DEBATE-ABLE

    SLP Big Air Kit and Flo-Rites, ($42.95 + (4) X $19.95= approx $122.00) E-Z to install , I just didn't notice any difference that's all.

    WASTE OF $$$$$ I.M.O.

    1) V-Force reeds, NO noticeable improvement, V-force's were definitely NOT worth the $258.00 and a lot of installation time!! In addition, several V-Force users have reported failures after just one season as the CFI sleds run "drier" than carbed sleds/

    2) Aftermarket silencers. Even with the weight reduction, acceleration is slower. And for those of you who think it's "cool", consider this next time you come across a "closed trail" sign. LOUD exhaust closes trails, period.

    3) Boost bottles (Carbed 600 IQ's)

    4) 8" rear wheel kits

    HOPE THIS HELPS!!

    PICS ARE POSTED ON hardcoresledder.com (Pinned at the top of the IQ section) and on SnoWest.com pinned at the top under "INCREASING YOUR IQ" thread.

    PICS BELOW
    OIL PUMP-ALIGNMENT TOOLS, SLOTTED ENGINE BRACKET, SLP PUSH LIMITER,-CLUTCH MARKED (NOT FULLY SHIFTED OUT)
    ttt

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Northwest Ohio and West Hiawatha
    Posts
    1,506

    Default

    I wish that I could trust a dealer to do all of this stuff and just throw money at it!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    north of Chicago at Wisconsin state line
    Posts
    482

    Default

    Take it to KRAVEN and throw money at him.............

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    close to the edge.
    Posts
    6,036

    Default

    the above is why allot of guys get a ars whooping stock to stock.got to the time to dial in your toys the oem,s are a joak what is in tolerance for clutch center to center and motor alignment.eaven stock chain tension is often way off on show room new sleds.btw dynotech is a great tool before going out and dropping cash on mods that are not always what they clame to be

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rakins800 View Post
    Take it to KRAVEN and throw money at him.............
    Thanks for the compliment Roger, but I barely have enough time to do mine and a couple of my buds.

    But I'm willing to answer any questions and help out on-line if I can.

    I just got back from a 520+ mile cross country trip from Northern Wisc to Copper and back. And of course we stopped at Henry's on the way up. Snow was excellent, trails were groomed well, looking to go back soon.

    4500 miles on my D7 now.

    My bud rides a 2007 Ski-Doo 800, stock for stock at first he got me by about 3-4 sled lengths and pulling slightly.

    After I fine tuned and dialed my sled in, I walk away from him pretty hard.

    And, no, I won't help him get his sled dialed in, lol.
    Last edited by kraven700; 01-23-2011 at 02:03 AM.

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Polarice View Post
    I wish that I could trust a dealer to do all of this stuff and just throw money at it!
    You know the old saying, "If you want something done right, you have to do it yourself"

    Nobody's going to look out for your sled like you will

    The instructions are there, give it a try, and I'll answer your questions when you run into problems

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Northwest Ohio and West Hiawatha
    Posts
    1,506

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kraven700 View Post
    You know the old saying, "If you want something done right, you have to do it yourself"

    Nobody's going to look out for your sled like you will

    The instructions are there, give it a try, and I'll answer your questions when you run into problems
    That's very much appreciated! I just may take you up on that.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Burlington, WI
    Posts
    807

    Default Hesitation/sputter 06' 600 HO switchback

    Kraven,

    Hoping you can help here. I have dropped $1300 on diagnosing a hesitation/sputter on my 06' 600 HO switchback when starting from a complete stop and nailing the gas. It just sputters for maybe a second or two and then kicks in. it will also do if I'm going real slow and then hit the gas. When in deep snow off trail and you need gas to get out of something and it hesitates, then you end up buried. I made the mistake of taking it to a non-dealer thinking I would save money.

    Here is the list of what has been done:

    Clutch adjusted. cleaned and belt defection adjusted along with new belt

    Exhaust valves cleaned

    Carbs cleaned

    Gas drained

    Crankshaft seal replaced (almost $800)

    Throttle safety switch tested

    Air screw(s) replaced

    Jets might have been replaced (it was said they weren't to spec and I think they were replaced)

    I'm going north this weekend and then taking it to a dealer after I get it home. A couple suggestions I have heard is disconnecting the safety switch. Also changing the jets by one size to run leaner(I suggested this numerous times, but the guy never did it). It does possibly run rich, sometimes there is a black spot in the snow if it is sitting one spot. It also seems to go through more gas than it should.

    You seem pretty knowledgeable, Im hoping you have some ideas. I'm not very mechanical so keep that in mind. Thanks a lot

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Northwest Ohio and West Hiawatha
    Posts
    1,506

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by snowdance View Post
    Kraven,

    Hoping you can help here. I have dropped $1300 on diagnosing a hesitation/sputter on my 06' 600 HO switchback when starting from a complete stop and nailing the gas. It just sputters for maybe a second or two and then kicks in. it will also do if I'm going real slow and then hit the gas. When in deep snow off trail and you need gas to get out of something and it hesitates, then you end up buried. I made the mistake of taking it to a non-dealer thinking I would save money.

    Here is the list of what has been done:

    Clutch adjusted. cleaned and belt defection adjusted along with new belt

    Exhaust valves cleaned

    Carbs cleaned

    Gas drained

    Crankshaft seal replaced (almost $800)

    Throttle safety switch tested

    Air screw(s) replaced

    Jets might have been replaced (it was said they weren't to spec and I think they were replaced)

    I'm going north this weekend and then taking it to a dealer after I get it home. A couple suggestions I have heard is disconnecting the safety switch. Also changing the jets by one size to run leaner(I suggested this numerous times, but the guy never did it). It does possibly run rich, sometimes there is a black spot in the snow if it is sitting one spot. It also seems to go through more gas than it should.

    You seem pretty knowledgeable, Im hoping you have some ideas. I'm not very mechanical so keep that in mind. Thanks a lot
    On your list I didn't see that you changed the fuel filter. That could be one thing.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Burlington, WI
    Posts
    807

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Polarice View Post
    On your list I didn't see that you changed the fuel filter. That could be one thing.
    I know he added an inline filter, but don't recall if the existing was changed. I'm thinking he would of checked that. He went so far as to drain the gas, so i would think it would have been checked. But, may be a cheap try anyhow. I'm assuming the has filter would be easy to get at and change?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Northwest Ohio and West Hiawatha
    Posts
    1,506

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by snowdance View Post
    I know he added an inline filter, but don't recall if the existing was changed. I'm thinking he would of checked that. He went so far as to drain the gas, so i would think it would have been checked. But, may be a cheap try anyhow. I'm assuming the has filter would be easy to get at and change?
    I've seen guys take all carbs off, rebuild, put back on, change jets, drain gas, take carbs off again, put airbox back on (that's always the best). Only to find out that all the problems were from a simple fuel filter. I would guess that it was changed though.

  13. #13

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by snowdance View Post
    Kraven,

    Hoping you can help here. I have dropped $1300 on diagnosing a hesitation/sputter on my 06' 600 HO switchback when starting from a complete stop and nailing the gas. It just sputters for maybe a second or two and then kicks in. it will also do if I'm going real slow and then hit the gas. When in deep snow off trail and you need gas to get out of something and it hesitates, then you end up buried. I made the mistake of taking it to a non-dealer thinking I would save money.

    Here is the list of what has been done:

    Clutch adjusted. cleaned and belt defection adjusted along with new belt

    Exhaust valves cleaned

    Carbs cleaned

    Gas drained

    Crankshaft seal replaced (almost $800)

    Throttle safety switch tested

    Air screw(s) replaced

    Jets might have been replaced (it was said they weren't to spec and I think they were replaced)

    I'm going north this weekend and then taking it to a dealer after I get it home. A couple suggestions I have heard is disconnecting the safety switch. Also changing the jets by one size to run leaner(I suggested this numerous times, but the guy never did it). It does possibly run rich, sometimes there is a black spot in the snow if it is sitting one spot. It also seems to go through more gas than it should.

    You seem pretty knowledgeable, Im hoping you have some ideas. I'm not very mechanical so keep that in mind. Thanks a lot
    E-Z quick way to diagnose if it's RICH or LEAN is to adjust the NEEDLE CLIP position.

    They're located under the top lids on the carbs, remove the phillips screws and you'll see the tops of the needles and hold-downs

    There's 5 grooves, stock is in the middle,

    RAISE the clip=DROP the NEEDLE=LEANER.

    Try that first, you need just a small metric allen wrench, and needle nose pliers, or stop by the dealer or any small engine service shop, and they'll do it for you, takes 5 minutes.

    Hope this helps

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Burlington, WI
    Posts
    807

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kraven700 View Post
    E-Z quick way to diagnose if it's RICH or LEAN is to adjust the NEEDLE CLIP position.

    They're located under the top lids on the carbs, remove the phillips screws and you'll see the tops of the needles and hold-downs

    There's 5 grooves, stock is in the middle,

    RAISE the clip=DROP the NEEDLE=LEANER.

    Try that first, you need just a small metric allen wrench, and needle nose pliers, or stop by the dealer or any small engine service shop, and they'll do it for you, takes 5 minutes.

    Hope this helps
    I'll try that. I thought to adjust the needle valves you had to remove the airbox, etc.. Thanks and I'll let you know after I try it this weekend.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    New London, WI
    Posts
    34

    Default

    Make sure both air screws are set at about 1 1/4 turns, double check. Usually playing with the air screws will resolve this issue.

  16. #16

    Default

    Ttt for Sledhead #1

  17. #17

    Default

    does anyone have a new program for the4 pc v for poos last flash on the d8?

  18. #18

    Default Dynotech jim (585) 993-2777

    Quote Originally Posted by jeff View Post
    does anyone have a new program for the4 pc v for poos last flash on the d8?
    www.dynotechresearch.com

    Dynotech Jim (585) 993-2777

    Jim has more maps than anyone else out there for D8's for all different re-flash dates, mods, etc.

    $ 25.00 annual subscription will get you access to all of his maps and 20+ years of his Dyno reports, which are informative and make it an interesting read.

    Hope this helps
    Last edited by kraven700; 02-13-2011 at 05:24 PM.

  19. #19

    Default

    ttt for guys lookin' to do something over the Summer

  20. #20

    Default

    ttt as the snow's flyin'

  21. #21

    Default

    ttt

  22. #22

    Default

    ttt

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