When we took our short tracks to the snowies this past winter, two of us (fusion and iq) had trouble with large amounts of ice building up inside the tunnel, to the point that the suspension would sag even without anyone sitting on it. Is this a common problem and is there any fix for it? The other guy with a firecat didn't seem to have the same problem...
Hoping this is something we can address over the summer...
I'd guess it's from the heat exchangers and the snow melting and then re-freezing. The Cat probably has a different heat exchanger set up, and doesn't cause the ice build up like the Polaris. I had a Fusion, and that was my problem too. The coolant going through the foot rails causes the sides of the tunnel to warm up enough to make the snow melt and re-freeze. I think the IQ has the coolers all the way down the inside of the tunnel, and that would cause the melt/re-freeze too. The Cat might just have the cool in the front by the driveshaft. Not totally sure on that though. I don't think there is much you can do about it, except try to clean it out as much as you can.
When we took our short tracks to the snowies this past winter, two of us (fusion and iq) had trouble with large amounts of ice building up inside the tunnel, to the point that the suspension would sag even without anyone sitting on it. Is this a common problem and is there any fix for it? The other guy with a firecat didn't seem to have the same problem...
Hoping this is something we can address over the summer...
Before your trip, spray the top & sides of your tunnel with TEFLON spray lube
When we took our short tracks to the snowies this past winter, two of us (fusion and iq) had trouble with large amounts of ice building up inside the tunnel, to the point that the suspension would sag even without anyone sitting on it. Is this a common problem and is there any fix for it? The other guy with a firecat didn't seem to have the same problem...
Hoping this is something we can address over the summer...
Before your trip, spray the top & sides of your tunnel with TEFLON spray lube
Is the underside of your tunnel bare aluminum or painted/powder coated? If it's bare aluminum, snow/ice will accumulate faster. If its painted or powder coated, it will not build up as fast. If it is bare and can't or don't want to paint, drop the skid and track and polish the inside of the tunnel, this helps a little too. I have an acquiantance that put a new Vanamburg tunnel on his MM a few years ago, had some ice buildup problems until he polished the underside. Just my observations.
"Snow and Ice Repellent." I'll have to give it a try. Riding off trail is the only time I've noticed it happens. I'm fairly sure the underside of the tunnel is bare aluminum, but I can't remember to be sure.
Do they do something different with the cooling system on the switchbacks/RMKs? Seems like a poor design if you think the sled will ever be off the trail.
I have a 2010 with tunnel protectors and a cobra track. No ice build up. I have a 2007 with a ripsaw and NO tunnel protectors. Major ice build up on the 2007.
I know the tunnels are different but I would put tunnel protectors on. As long as you're in prime conditions like out west you'll be fine. I'm going to remove mine from my '10 because they cause the sled to get hot in non prime conditions. Polaris dropped the ball on that one. So I'll have some for sale soon if they'll fit your sled. I don't have studs anymore so I don't need them.
I have a 2010 with tunnel protectors and a cobra track. No ice build up. I have a 2007 with a ripsaw and NO tunnel protectors. Major ice build up on the 2007.
I know the tunnels are different but I would put tunnel protectors on. As long as you're in prime conditions like out west you'll be fine. I'm going to remove mine from my '10 because they cause the sled to get hot in non prime conditions. Polaris dropped the ball on that one. So I'll have some for sale soon if they'll fit your sled. I don't have studs anymore so I don't need them.
I'm interested, but I ride in non-prime conditions quite a bit (particularly in Wisconsin). Are both your 07 and your 10 IQ's?
I think the problem is the aluminum conducting heat very well. I suspect that the tunnel protection insulates and prevents the buld up.
Just get in there and put some thin plastic sheeting along the full length of the sled and I bet this would end most if not all of the icing. No heat transference, equates to lack of icing.
I think the problem is the aluminum conducting heat very well. I suspect that the tunnel protection insulates and prevents the buld up.
Just get in there and put some thin plastic sheeting along the full length of the sled and I bet this would end most if not all of the icing. No heat transference, equates to lack of icing.
It also makes for extremely bad cooling. The sled runs around 140 in prime. I've seen it past 180 in non prime where my 2007 IQ will run around 135.
It also makes for extremely bad cooling. The sled runs around 140 in prime. I've seen it past 180 in non prime where my 2007 IQ will run around 135.
If I remember right, mine is typical just under 130, and that is without any tunnel protection.
Polarice - what are your thoughts on the cobra track vs the ripsaw, since you've had each on similar sleds? Mine is getting close to needing a track, although I will probably end up stretching it at the same time...
Hoosier-My buddy put moved from a ripsaw to a cobra on his yami viper and said it changed the way the sled handled. He is sold on the cobra. It sure sprays like a MF when your behind it!
If I remember right, mine is typical just under 130, and that is without any tunnel protection.
Polarice - what are your thoughts on the cobra track vs the ripsaw, since you've had each on similar sleds? Mine is getting close to needing a track, although I will probably end up stretching it at the same time...
Cobra all the way. Transformed the '10 I have but that was going from stock with studs. IMO the sled handles near perfect with 6" slim jims. The slim Jim's were worn from a season on the studded track though. The cobra just made the sled handle so much different...it was like having a new sled. That is no exaggeration.
The ripsaw is good too. I don't ride the '07 too much though, its more for the lady and buddies that need a sled. I do like it, just not like my '10 as far as handling goes.
Cobra all the way. When the ripsaw wears out on the '07 there will be a cobra on it.
That's quite a few votes for the Cobra...I was hoping to hear they aren't that much different, as I've seen quite a few used ripsaw's for sale fairly cheap in good condition. I've never liked the stock track on the Fusion, and it's missing a whole bunch of lugs along one side so I'm getting a little nervous to keep riding it. Like I said above, I think I'm going to end up stretching it to 136 (tracksusa), and hopefully pick up a used "trail" track like a ripsaw or cobra for wisconsin/up and a used 2" track for going West, cause I can't afford to dump too much into this sled right now (if I could, I'd probably upgrade instead). I think it was Skylar that pointed out that the 2" tracks are all over snowest.com, and I have seen quite a few on there and on ebay.
I think the reason that you're finding so many used ripsaws is because they're so popular. I believe that eventually you'll see the cobras the same way. They are putting them on the Polaris pro r's nowadays. I'm glad the new switch pro r I bought had one on it already.
I heard that guys can put a 2" on a shorty and ride it out west without too many problems. You could probably save $ and try that instead of an extension.
I think the reason that you're finding so many used ripsaws is because they're so popular. I believe that eventually you'll see the cobras the same way. They are putting them on the Polaris pro r's nowadays. I'm glad the new switch pro r I bought had one on it already.
I heard that guys can put a 2" on a shorty and ride it out west without too many problems. You could probably save $ and try that instead of an extension.
That makes sense - seems like ripsaw was "THE" track for trail riding before the Cobra came out. Just leaving the sled a shorty is an option I'm thinking about also, but the extensions aren't very expensive. When we were at the snowies last year, I definitely wished I had more track, and I've heard different people see lugs or length is more important. I'm not looking to do hardcore highmarking, just want to be able to bust through powder better. And, since I ride in Wisconsin quite a bit, where conditions can be and often are borderline/marginal, I'd rather have 2 different tracks than try to find a good compromise. If I knocked off a bunch of lugs on the 1" track that's on there now, I'm assuming a 1.75 or 2" track would take even worse of a beating.
Both are great tracks but I think you would be very happy with the 121 cobra. The Cobra is better in loose snow if that's the main factor. If you have had a ripsaw before I would try the cobra or vice versa that way you will know what you want and like. I like to try something different that way I know. I have a fusion as well and I 'm going to try the Ice Ripper XT when it is time to replace. I would just pull the trigger and give it a shot.
Ripsaw is garbage in the deep stuff. Ask me how I know
that looks like user error to me.
but yeah rip saws suck on anything but trails then they are great but I vote for the cobra
as far as ice build up you could always pack a rubber hammer in the back pack lol
Why does everybody keep saying that? I couldn't get no momentum, I was trying to turn around in the woods after running out of logging road. No 121" ripsaw would've made this turn around. It was 60 degrees this day and that makes for great riding without getting stuck NOT!