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Thread: trailer decking

  1. #1
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    Default trailer decking

    Just bought a trailer off my buddy and is in need of new decking, what is the best wood to use and what should it be treated with? Thanks

  2. #2
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    Marine plywood, like on a pontoon deck. But, it is pricey.

  3. #3
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    What kind of trailer?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by chevytaHOE5674 View Post
    What kind of trailer?
    Good question, I just assumed a sled trailer.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by jr37 View Post
    Marine plywood, like on a pontoon deck. But, it is pricey.
    In the 80s I bought an inexpensive steel trailer that had marine plywood on it. The deck out lasted the trailer. Even withstood carbide abuse well. My newer aluminum trailers all had treated plywood that didn't hold up as well.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by jr37 View Post
    Marine plywood, like on a pontoon deck. But, it is pricey.
    Ditto on both.....and not necessarily easy to find, either, especially when not buying in quantity.

  7. #7
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    I think you will have good luck with Wolmanized products. If the trailer is covered, then buy the cheapest stuff you can find and paint it on the exposed side. OSB has been down on my covered trailer for several years and the carbides don't cut or harm it. It gets really hard when it is cold. Seems I paid $6 a sheet for it and it is holding up fine.

  8. #8
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    It is a alum. floe snowmobile trailer. not covered, and will be stored exposed to the full sun and elements

  9. #9
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    Advantech is the flooring a lot of high end trailers are putting in now. I'm not familiar with it but a google search should have information about it. From what little I've read about Advantech, it is supposed to be very good. I would also guess very expensive. Good luck with your project.

  10. #10

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    You will be better off with a treated plywood not marine plywood. It will last longer and it's much cheaper for that use.
    Too many people misunderstand what marine plywood is for. For years I sold at a lumberyard that used to handle marine plywood and all other types.

    Yes it could work and last, but it's not what it is for - it would be wasting $$$

    Only issue is the treatment these days react with some metals, so ask about that when buying treated.
    I got out of that business before the new stuff came around.
    Last edited by 98panther; 06-03-2012 at 10:02 PM.

  11. #11
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    If you have time, and don't mind a little mess, buy some regular plywood and coat it with used engine oil. An old timer told me about this. I thought he was nuts, but he showed me a trailer with a 10+ year old deck, and the wood looked solid to me.

  12. #12
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    as long as you are spending, drop another $100 bucks and get some ski guides and track mats to protect your new deck from carbides and studs if you have them. Well worth it.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by George View Post
    It is a alum. floe snowmobile trailer. not covered, and will be stored exposed to the full sun and elements
    Marine plywood is ideal for an enclosed trailer as it will last decades. In your case, I would use treated plywood on an open place trailer, especially with it being left (stored) outdoors. When the water protection begins to wane, treat it with Thompsons water seal. Keep the bed tilted when not in use, both summer & winter, it will last a long time.-Mezz

  14. #14
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    I used 3/4" treated plywood on a trailer once, then each summer I'd give it a good coat of water sealant like Mezz said. Several kinds of that stuff out there too. Anything you can do to prevent "ponding" of water will help it last a long time.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by George View Post
    It is a alum. floe snowmobile trailer. not covered, and will be stored exposed to the full sun and elements
    Floe trailers are good trailers so install treated plywood seal it with a wood sealer plus multiglides & mats & you will be set for a long long time. Me I go enclosed with rear drop ramp so I can store sleds out of elements year around.

  16. #16
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    Been doing a little research and seems that pressure treated plywood may not be the best option. The new chemicals they use in P/T plywood will corrode the alum. would the alum. not corrode if I coat all the cross members with rhino liner? also what about alum. rivets? I want a good deck but don't really want to spend 300 to get it.

  17. #17
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    If you put track mats and ski glides on it you would be fine since no part of your sled will be in contact with the wood decking. Pressure treated plywood with a annual coat of sealer with mats and glides will last you longer than you'll keep the trailer.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by George View Post
    Been doing a little research and seems that pressure treated plywood may not be the best option. The new chemicals they use in P/T plywood will corrode the alum. would the alum. not corrode if I coat all the cross members with rhino liner? also what about alum. rivets? I want a good deck but don't really want to spend 300 to get it.
    I'm not sure about the corrosive effect on aluminum as the open trailer I have is a steel frame. I am sure that if you did coat the frame with either rhino or a spray undercoating that would adequately protect the frame from the feared affect. Another consideration would be to get 3/4" exterior plywood & water seal it yourself top & bottom.-Mezz

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by garyl62 View Post
    If you put track mats and ski glides on it you would be fine since no part of your sled will be in contact with the wood decking. Pressure treated plywood with a annual coat of sealer with mats and glides will last you longer than you'll keep the trailer.
    not worried about my sled my concern was the trailer. I am not putting ski guides and mats on trailer as I use it for many other things and don't want those on there. .
    Mezz-- 3/4" won't fit under the lip that is used to retain the outside edge of the wood.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by George View Post
    not worried about my sled my concern was the trailer. I am not putting ski guides and mats on trailer as I use it for many other things and don't want those on there. .
    Mezz-- 3/4" won't fit under the lip that is used to retain the outside edge of the wood.
    Is it lipped in the front & rear? Is is possible to either route or cut a rabbit joint into the ends of the decking & slip it into the lip? Possibly go with the next size plywood, 5/8"?-Mezz

  21. #21
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    The Floe trailers (mine anyway) do use 5/8" plywood. When I redecked mine a few years ago, I used 3/4" cca treated plywood , and had to rout a rabbet joint around all the edges to get it to slide into the channels. The original 5/8" decking was also rabbetted I think about 3/16" deep, so I had to cut the rabbett about 5/16" deep. I should have cut it a little deeper, because with the plywood not being flat, it was a chore to get it to slide into the channels, but it turned out nice.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by George View Post
    not worried about my sled my concern was the trailer. I am not putting ski guides and mats on trailer as I use it for many other things and don't want those on there. .
    After I replied I realized you were probably thinking about the frame and I only thought of the sled. Sorry for being a step or two behind you.

    Not sure what you want to do the thickness of the wood but I remember my Floe was also rabbitted for the lip and tie down track. As far as the treated wood issue I think a quick and cheap fix would be to use window tape over all the frame that the wood comes in contact with. It is the black really sticky tape that is about 3" wide and normally you use it in construction to tape over the flange on a window under the siding or brick mold. It is also refered to as flashing tape. You can get it at any home improvement store. I would think a 75' roll would be enough for the trailer and it would run about $20.

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